MIDDLE (8414 m)
(The first ascent, devoted to the memory of Vladimir Bashkirov)
Pictures | Last
attempt | Russian 8000-peak
4 climbers (Eugeny Vinogradsky, Serguei Timofeev,
Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov) made first ascent
Middle (8414 m, Himalaya, Nepal). Now there is the summit
the 8000m in Himalaya where the Russian were the first to
May 24, 3 climbers: Gleb
Sokolov, Yuri Koshelenko, Nikolai
May 27, 2 climbers: Viktor
Volodin, Vladimir Yanochkin.
The summit Lhotse East or Middle
(8,414 m) is situated on the ridge between Main summit of Lhotse
8,516 m and summit Lhotse Shar 8,400 m. Any separate ascents up
to this summit are practically excluded because of the steep walls
and very crossed relief and it is possible to summit it only climbing
up to Lhotse Main or Lhotse Shar before and then make a traverse
of a very crossed ridge with a length about 1000 meters.
The ascent up to Lhotse Main by itself or Lhotse Shar is the task
of separate expeditionand the additional traverse which requires
several days of work on the height more then 8,300 m makes the Lhotse
East unclimbed till nowadays.
Actually almost all moreor less interesting eightsousanders Faces
and ridges in
Himalayas were climbed. Last first ascent up to the summit higher
then 8 000 m was in 1982.
Plans to be on the summit of Lhotse Middle already had several teams
but all attempts were unsuccessful. In 1994 the team from Switzerland
tried to make a traverse to Lhotse East but climbed the Lhotse Main
summit on 9:10 a.m.had to refuse next climbing because of awful
state of the route and wild froze.
The Russian team (part of it is now participate in the autumn expedition)
also tried to climb this last Himalayan citadel on spring 1997 but
the very bad weather in Everest region did not allow to do it. On
the descent from the Main Lhotse summit the strongest highaltitude
climber of Russia Vladimir Bashkirov was died.
In 1997 one try to summit East top by traverse from main Lhotse.
The ascent is dedicated to memory of Vladimir Bashkirov.
The members :
Cherny Nikolai (Moscow),
Gleb Sokolov (Novosibirsk),
Viktor Volodin (Moscow),
Vasili Elagin (Moscow),
Vladimir Yanochkin (Moscow),
Petr Kuznetsov (Krasnojarsk),
Yuri Koshelenko (Rostov)
Evgueni Vinogradsky ( Ekaterinburg),
Serguei Timofeev ( Ekaterinburg),
Alexei Bolotov ( Ekaterinburg),
Nikolai Jiline ( Ekaterinburg),
Yuri Ermachek( Ekaterinburg).
of the expedition and the film producer - Victor Kozlov
Katmandu. Reception in
the Ministry of Tourism of Nepal. Drowing up the latest
15 men left with 15 tons cargo for Lukla.
Base Camp (5300), glacier Khumbu.
All expedition is at BC. Next day was devoted by
Base Camp (5300m), glacier Khumbu.
Lama has had a visit BC, prayer flags were hanged, ritual
fights were lit.
Camp I (6100m).
The team set up the Camp I just behind the glacier Khumbu.
Coaches (N. Cherny, S.Timofeev, E.Vinogradsky) chose next
groups for making route:
1.Cherny, Elagin, Ianochkin, Volodin,
2.Timofeev, Vinogradsky, Bolotov, Kuznetsov,
3.Jilin, Ermachek, Sokolov, Koshelenko.
Camp II (6300m).
They made 1/3 of route up to the camp III, fixed ropes about
up to 6900m.
Under bad weather conditions pair Bolotov-Kuznetsov make
section between camp II and camp III.
The camp III was set up at the heigh 7400m.
Because of unsettled conditions the plans were changed. All
the members of the team have a rest in BC during 3 days.
Establishing of the camp IV on the southeast col (7986m).
Nasty weather and heavy mood after death of sherpa Babu forced
to give up. Nepal went into national mourning.
The team led by Jilin made near about 300m of snow slope.
There was a heavy fall of snow in the night on 11,May, about 1
meters of snow.
The rest participants of the expedition couldn't come up even
to Southeast col because of a lot of snow. Everybody descended
to BC for having a rest.
Nepal vice minister of tourism gave permit number 1 for the
of Lhotse Middle to the Russian team.
Bolotov and Kuznetsov reached the southeast col.
Timofeev and Vinogradsky came up to the southeast col. Bolotov
and Kuznetsov made half of the slope.
They set up last camp at 8250m Timofeev and Kuznetsov finished
to make snow slope. All of them had a sleep at camp V.
Quartet ( Timofeev, Kuznetsov, Bolotov, Vinogradsky ) started
for their final push near about 8am. At 3pm all of them
summited and went back to the camp V (8250m) at 8pm, it was
getting dark Jilin,Sokolov and Koshelenko had a sleep at
campIV on the southeast col.
In the morning all of that trio reached the summit and
descended to the Camp IV.
Ermachek decided to descend but Volodin and Yanochkin started
ascent and summited. Next day everybody gathered at BC.
They left BC.
In the morning the team came back to Moscow.
Photo (Base Camp).
Upper line, from left to right: Elagin, Ermachek, Kuznetsov,
Bolotov, Vinogradsky, Cherny, Sokolov.
Lower line: on the left three sherpas ( Nwang Tenjing, Ang
Karma, Nima Tshering), Yanochkin, Koshelenko, Timofeev, Jilin,
climbers (Ural, Russia), pictures by Gleb Sokolov